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The Monastery of Seiça

The last time I was there, the ground floor was still full of old rusty fridges, and the stairs to the tower were closed because it was too dangerous. A stork had made a nest in the tree growing on the tower.

Por Diogo Ervideira – Obra do próprio, CC BY-SA 3.0

The Monastery of Seiça has been empty for a long time

It’s a beautiful spot in the woods. In the past, these were real forests, when the monks still lived there. That was a long time ago, in 1164, when the land was donated to the Order of Benedictines by Dom Afonso Henriques.

It is raining. It has been raining for days, and there is only so much you can read, mosaic or watch. Helmy and GertJan are staying for a few more days, so: “Let’s see if we can find it tomorrow afternoon,” Helmy laughs, “maybe I can find it with my GPS – although it says it’s a 93 kilometre drive ….” “ …. and it’s 10 minutes from here … ” I add, “we’ll go at the speed of sound then. Or your GPS is wrong, that could also be the case.”

It’s because the monastery is officially called Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Seiça. Ah! We could have guessed, something with Maria and Santa. Around here you just call it Seiça, and then everyone knows what you mean. We’re there in fifteen minutes. It’s dry, thanks to the weathergods! We first walk to the chapel, but unfortunately you can’t get in.

I’m wild about the doors (so rustic and beautiful!). GertJan manages to take a few photos through the rusty iron window gate, so that we can still see something of what can be admired inside. Later we learn from the guide in the monastery that the chapel does not belong to the monastery, is from much later (1602), and that you have to ask the priest if you can have the key.

Seems a bit awkward, but okay.

We walk through the monastery where there are a few exhibitions. Of the preserved stone details – as you have seen above, the monastery has been very seriously neglected – and of a few photographers who have specialized in photographing old religious buildings, old industrial buildings and old villas. All with dramatically photoshopped cloudy skies.

The extreme neglect is due, the guide tells us, because a few hundred years ago the Portuguese state expropriated all the monasteries and threw out all the monks, for their own use. We now have the beautiful pousadas to thank for that, but not all buildings have been so fortunate as to be transformed into hospitable accommodation ( = 5-star hotels).

Seiça had to wait a long time.for some attention

Now it has finally been restored. Sort of, because a complete restoration would have cost a zillion euros. It was too far gone. The way it is now, the essence of the building restored, is beautiful enough.

Beautiful enough for an interesting afternoon!

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We moved here in 2000 from Rotterdam, Holland to the Termas-da-Azenha, Portugal.

A big step, especially with two small children.

We are busy to rebuild one of portugals cultural heirlooms: Termas-da-Azenha, an old spa which has been turned into several holiday houses, rooms and a campsite.

You’ll find mosaics and paintings everywhere.

Since 2018 we call ourselves the first B&B&B in the world – Bed & Breakfast & Bathrobes. You can buy a home-made unique bathrobe/housecoat with us.

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